How to Read a Skincare Label?

The order of ingredients listed is very important, the greatest amount of one ingredient will start from the top and descend to the bottom. So when you see water listed as the first ingredient there is a high percentage of water in that product (however this is not always a bad thing but we will get into that later…)

As you get to the bottom of the list you will most likely see common ingredients such as citric acid, linalool, phenoxyethanol, etc. these are normally ingredients used to preserve or stabilize the product.

Depending on the type of product the ingredients will change. For example a moisturizer is more likely to contain silicones than a serum would.

What should I look out for?

Active ingredients in the beginning of the list means that it is the most concentrated in the product. This means that that particular ingredient is very potent and is one of the stronger ingredients that will penetrate into the skin. Some brands even have a separate medical ingredient list where they specify the percentage of the ingredient to show the exact potency. For example 2% Salicylic acid is the best percentage for acne prone skin, and 5%-10% Niacinamide is amazing for hyperpigmentation. Niacinamide, Salicylic acid and Lactic Acid are one of the most common active ingredients listed at the start of a product label. 

One misconception about skin care products is that you shouldn’t want water listed at the top of your ingredients list.  Seeing water as a first ingredient is not actually a bad thing. The purpose of water in a skincare product is to allow the ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin. Water also plays an essential roll as a universal solvent, which means it helps dilute other substances that may be too active to apply directly on the skin so that it can be tolerated. Water will help reduce the activity level of the substance so that it is a safe dosage that can be applied to the skin. Additionally, if your moisturizer has water listed first, it’s simply a water based moisturizer which is great for oily skin types!

Silicones

Silicones are typically used in a product for create a smooth texture on the skin.  It is occlusive so this will also help to keep the water in the skin! We don’t necessarily think that you should avoid silicones but you should be aware of how much silicone is in a product.  Since it does help the functionality of a cream having 1-3 silicones in your product is okay such as dimethicone, but one you go past that the cream is most likely just made for texture and not hydration.

 Some hydrating serums will have a silicone in it to help trap the moisture in the skin. However for other types of serums we typically like ours to be silicone free.

What about Parabens?

Parabens are a type of preservative and are an ingredient that is very controversial. Many individuals want to avoid parabens all together. Without some type of preservative your product will expire much faster and you’ll have to be more careful when storing it. Keep in mind, science has developed many new forms of effective preservatives. Usually preservatives are used in very small quantities and are listed towards the end of the ingredient list. Do not be too worried about preservatives in your skin care labels, it’ll just let you use your skin care for a longer period of time. So, to answer the ultimate question “Are parabens bad in skin care?” The answer is; there is no scientific evidence of negative effects caused from parabens but, if you would like to avoid them there are now so many paraben free options.

Fragrance and Dye

Fragrance and dye are known for sensitizing the skin which is why we like to avoid it all together.  If you do buy a product with fragrance in it, make sure that it is found lower on the ingredients list as it will have a lower percentage in the product itself. Typically we like to avoid fragrance and dyes because they can sensitize the skin, however if they don’t bother you go for it!

Essential Oils

First off, perfume fragrance is not the same as essential oils. Essential oils are natural compounds extracted from plants. Essential oils are not bad for the skin in low quantities. As long as the essential oil is diluted enough it can be very beneficial to your skin concerns. This being said many people do have sensitivities and allergies to essential oils so beware as it can be irritating to the skin. If you experience any burning, itching and/or any type of discomfort, discontinue using the product and rinse the area. 

PEG

You may notice PEG 40, PEG 400, etc. listed in your ingredients.  These are emulsifiers used to bind products together. However, these chemical compounds can have different bases which is where there is a different number attached to each one.  For example, PEG 40 is based in castor oil whereas PEG 100 is based in stearic acid. Therefore PEG’s are not bad for you or an unpronounceable chemical, they are just short form for an ingredient.

Good Basics

There are a few common ingredients that are commonly found in moisturizers and serums that are great bonuses to have such as Tocopherol, Glycerin, and Sodium Hyaluronate. It is important to note that all these big named ingredients are just scientific names for simple ingredients, they are just formulated in a particular way to penetrate into the skin. 

• Tocopherol- Vitamin E, very moisturizing and healing for the skin

• Glycerin- Often found as one of the first ingredients in a moisturizer.  It is a humectant which draws moisture into the skin.  It is an amazing inexpensive ingredient which is why you will find it in EVERYTHING.

• Sodium Hyaluronate- aka Hyaluronic acid, an amazing ingredient to hydrate and plump the skin.

• Panthenol- Vitamin B5, Helps your skin retain water.