How to deal with the skin Purging Process!

So you introduced some new skincare products into your routine and have started to breakout out.

Now what?

First, let’s start off with explaining what is cell turnover?

Cell Turnover Definition: it is the continuous cycle of newer/younger skin cells replacing and shedding dead skin cells from the surface of the skin.

There are 5 layers within the epidermis (your skin). The first layer is the basale layer, it takes up to 6 weeks for the cells in the basale layer to move up to the outermost layer of the skin called the stratum corneum.

With age and continuous UV damage, our cell turnover rate decreases. During your teen years to your 20s the average cell turnover rate is 10-21 days. 

What is the average rate of cell turnover for those 50 and older? Well, by the time you reach your 50s your cell turnover rate has already increased 60-90+ days.

That’s why it is so important to incorporate active ingredients and sun protection early on!

Increase Your Cell Turnover With:

For beginners: Dermaquest Renewal Cream

• Contains added hyaluronic acid

For anti-aging concerns: Dermaquest Retinol Peptide Youth Serum

•  Contains added peptides

For Hyperpigmentation: Dermaquest SkinBrite Serum

• Contains added brightening ingredients

What is purging?

Purging is your skin’s process of ridding bacteria and damaged cells from the skin. This is common when introducing active ingredients that exfoliate and increase cell turnover. It’s also very common for those who are hydrating their skin for the first time after a long period of using drying ingredients such as benzoyl peroxide.

As your skin cells move up from the basal layer, it will bring all of the damage & bacteria along with it. Some would call this a skin detox with skin detox symptoms. It’s pushing everything out!

What does a purge look like?

A purge can manifest as blemishes, increased blackheads, and flakiness. 

Before you start your new products take a look at your skin. If you have any type of texture, congestion, or bumpiness you can expect to purge in those areas.

How can I tell the difference between purging vs. irritation?

When introducing stronger actives it’s easy to overdo it. One thing to be weary of is to make sure that you are not over-exfoliating your skin, lucky for you we have an entire blog post on over-exfoliation, here.

Allergic reactions are always a possibility, especially when it comes to sensitive skin. If this is you then you should always patch test your products before use. Apply a small amount on the back of your neck behind your ear. If you experience any type of rash, then the product is not for you.

Forms of irritation can occur as a type of dermatitis. If you experience rough patches of skin for long periods of time that haven’t gone away with your exfoliating routine, it’s possible that this is a rash.

The Good News?

Purging means your skincare is doing its job. You’re on your way to fresher and brighter skin!

The thing about breakouts is that they can occur within the deeper layers of the skin. Once you have a damaged cell they will multiply, creating more damaged cells.

So, when you start to increase your cell turnover rate with ingredients such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and BHAs/AHAs all of those damaged cells will be shed in the skin purging process.

However, the amount and length of the purging process all depends on the amount of damage & bacteria that is in the skin. A telltale sign that your purge is working and your skin is becoming healthier is that you will notice your breakouts healing faster and the time between breakouts are more spaced out than usual.

Here are our tips for handling a purge:

1. Keep Going!

So many people will stop using a new skincare product the second they notice a blemish and call it quits.

When you’re in the process of a purge it is important to keep using your active ingredients, any breakouts that you’re experiencing are already within your skin. Your new products are simply pushing them out which is necessary.

2. Hydrate! Hydrate! Hydrate!

Hydration is the first line of defense when it comes to acne in general! Hydrating your skin properly will prevent Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation, more breakouts, and any future damage.

Drying out your skin is never the answer when it comes to acne. Dehydration will just lead to irritation, inflammation (swollen red blemishes), aging, and worsened acne scarring.

So often have we encountered clients struggling with acne that have resorted to drying their skin out with harsh ingredients and avoiding moisture. If this is you, unfortunately your purge may last longer as your skin will take time to rehydrate and repair deeper damage (we definitely recommend Vitamin C for you, check out our blog here with recommendations)

We Recommend: 

For All Skin Types, and those that are prone to congestion: Clear Oil Control Serum

For Dry Sensitive Types, and those with deep cystic acne: Delicate Soothing Serum

3. Mask Monday

Bring a mask into your weekly routine! Oftentimes when experiencing a breakout, we feel as if we need to do something about it. Realistically we just need to let the breakout run its course. Incorporating a mask is an easy way to help with that!

4. SPF!

If you’re not already using SPF daily then you’re already behind! SPF will prevent worsened acne scarring and aging!

The Dermaquest SheerZinc30 is amazing as it is not only a form of sun protection but also a treatment to soothe irritated skin. Zinc is amazing to calm irritated blemishes and oil production. Dermaquest has done an amazing job formulating an SPF that won’t clog pores or feel heavy on the skin.

Just remember, the goal shouldn’t be perfect skin but rather healthy skin. Stick with your skincare routine, and try not to get overwhelmed by unsightly blemishes. It’s all a part of the process!

Examples of purging on different skin types:

Note: Everyone will purge differently.