Is Physical Sunscreen Better?
Although it is springtime and the allergies are flowing, that nice warm sunshine summer is just around the corner. There is no doubt that people will be out and about craving that summer glow, but no one wants a sunburn! So, let’s take a closer look on what sunscreen really does and whether physical sunscreen truly is the ultimate source of sun protection.
What is sunscreen and how does it work?
Sunscreen generally combines ingredients to provide broad-spectrum coverage, which means it should protect against both UVA and UVB rays. UVA and UVB are two basic types of ultraviolet rays that cause damage to the skin through sun exposure and artificial light.
Which is more harmful, UVA or UVB?
Both types of damage unprotected skin, but how they go about doing that differs.
UVA rays are the silent killers they penetrate deeper into the skin and are the leading cause of wrinkles and skin cancer. UVA can also penetrate through glass, meaning that if you are sitting by a window the UVA rays are attacking you!
UVB rays on the other hand, do not penetrate the skin as aggressively as UVA rays. However, they directly cause visible changes to the surface of your skin such as sunburns and hyperpigmentation, UVB rays can play a role in skin cancer!
Both UVA & UVB rays should be avoided so that we can avoid causing any type of damage to the skin!
Do I really need to wear sunscreen everyday?
The simple answer to this is yes!
Here are some facts for you Karens out there! In Canada, more than 80 000 cases of skin cancer are diagnosed every year due to the exposure to UV radiation. It is estimated to be associated with 80%-90% of skin cancers!
Not only is sunscreen used to block ultraviolet radiation to decrease skin cancer rates but it is also promoted to protect against sunburns and skin photo-aging.
Should you wear sunscreen everyday even if you don't go outside?
UVA rays are the silent killers and will penetrate through glass. Whether it is sunny outside or gloomy, UVA rays can be out. So better to be safe than sorry!
Which is the better mineral or chemical sunscreen?
Here’s the tea!
Pros of chemical sunscreen: Typically more affordable options available, no white cast, thin texture.
Cons of chemical sunscreen:
Chemical sunscreens are usually formulated with:
benzophenone
octocrylene
oxybenzone
octinoxate
avobenzone
homosalate
Let’s start with the most superficial finding/most common: Chemical sunscreens have been reported to cause adverse reactions such as; stinging, burning, rash, irritation, dermatitis and clogged pores.
Toxicity of chemical sunscreens:
Study A: One Day’s Use of Chemical UV Filters
A study in 2019 by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) conducted a test on 24 healthy participants around the age of 35 years old. In this study they applied chemical SPF four times a day.
They found that after one day of use chemical sunscreen residue was found in the participants blood samples. This included upwards of 0.5mg/mL of avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octocrylene.
According to the FDA, if a sunscreen chemical exceeds a blood concentration of 0.5mg/mL, this indicates potential concerns with that ingredient. Therefore, it should undergo further toxicological testing!
Study B: Octocrylene/Benzophenone & Animal Endocrine Systems
As recent as March 2021, a publication was made by the American Chemical Society with the consensus that more studies need to be done on chemical UV filters as evidence leading to the belief that these filters are a danger to public health.
Unfortunately, there are enough studies to show detrimental effects to our health & environment, but not enough studies to make changes with the FDA.
Findings with Octocrylene: It is a proven endocrine disruptor, developmental toxicant, and metabolic stressor. This was found in mammal receptor models and various wildlife models, including fish and coral. Evidence potentially suggests that octocrylene may have a role in the behaviour of tumorigenesis and carcinogenesis.
Findings with Benzophenone: Although there are few studies, studies have shown that benzophenone has impacted fertility and hormonal changes in animals that were chronically exposed to the ingredient.
Example: In rainbow trout, benzophenone binds to the trout estrogen receptor and induces vitellogenin mRNA in liver slices.
Pros of mineral sunscreens:
Mineral sunscreen ingredients are seen as pregnancy safe and safe for babies.
Mineral sunscreen is also great for all skin types, especially those who are quick to react with heat such as sensitive skin, rosacea, acne-prone skin and eczema.
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are natural minerals that sit on top of the skin. It works by reflecting, scattering and absorbing UV rays creating “physical barriers”. Unlike their chemical counterparts, they don’t enter the skin!
Cons of mineral sunscreens:
Poor formulations can cause a white cast & thick texture. However, we have a great recommendation that has shrunk the molecule of the UV filters so that there is no white cast on the skin and feels light on the skin!
How Does Sunscreen Affect The Environment?
Here’s a terrifying fact about benzophenone. It has been patented multiple times by major herbicide and pesticide companies such as the infamous Monsanto Chemical Company and Rohm and Haas Company, for its “valuable herbicidal compositions and methods of destroying or preventing plant growth” and “undesirable growth of suckers in tobacco plants”. Meaning that it is readily and effectively used as an ingredient to purposefully obstruct environments and habitats.
With the mass production of these personal care products there is a potential concern for environmental contamination. This can be done through:
swimmer discharge (sunscreen & fragrance)
garbage & debris
sewage discharge (sunscreen, cosmetics, fragrances)
Unfortunately, environmental surveying is extremely costly and human-resource intensive.
The Coral Reefs
Coral exposed to oxybenzone and octinoxate which is most commonly found in chemical sunscreens cause coral bleaching—a condition that leaves coral vulnerable to infection and prevents it from getting the nutrients it needs to survive—as well as DNA damage, and abnormalities in their growth and skeleton.
Unfortunately, there is a lack of studies regarding the effects that sunscreen has on the environment. From our research we found that non-nano zinc, lavender, beeswax etc., which are typically seen as organic/natural ingredients are not readily subjected to toxicology testing but have shown to cause disruption to our environment. However, due to the lack of testing this is not a recognized concern or thoroughly proven.
In our opinion, this leads us to believe that if there were more studies/testing done we would find more damage that these “organic” products are causing. So, the moral of the story is that just because a product is labeled as “organic certified” it does not mean it is safer for you and the environment!
Is mineral sunscreen good for your skin?
Our opinion:
Overall, there are enough studies to lead to potential concerns surrounding chemical UV filters, but not enough to make it an official health concern. We want to emphasize that this has to do with the amount of studies that have been conducted, there is simply a lack of research done.
In this situation we’d rather be safe than sorry. There’s definitely enough evidence available to us to be concerned about these ingredients. Why use questionable chemical UV filters when there are alternatives available to us?
Time and time again standards of the FDA are up for debate. Although chemical sunscreens are FDA approved these are also approved by the FDA:
1 rodent hair per 100grams of peanut butter
1 kilogram of wheat may contain up to 9 rodent poop pellets
Tomato paste is considered bad only if more than 45 percent contains mold!
On Top of that, if a company determines that they have conducted rigorous testing and you have a horrid reaction to it, it’s not the products that gave you that reaction (according to the company and FDA standards).
In 2017, Health Canada received 187 complaints regarding Banana Boat sunscreen products. 97 of the cases reported burns or blister-related reactions. More than half of the alleged victims in those cases were children or adolescents.
However, due to Banana Boat Canada’s rigorous testing, it was shown as safe and incapable of causing chemical burns. To us, this would demonstrate how faulty/unreliable testing is.
So, do what you will with this information!
Is mineral sunscreen good for your skin? / What is the healthiest sunscreen to use?
Dermaquest’s SheerZinc SPF30 has become our holy grail product. Not only is it a safe & effective way to protect against UV damage, it is also a treatment for the skin.
This product is pregnancy safe, and beneficial for both acneic & sensitive skin types. This is due to their formulation of micronized zinc (which is different from non-nano zinc that was mentioned earlier). Micronized zinc is extremely soothing for the skin which can aid in reducing inflammation for cystic acne and eczema.
The biggest complaint with mineral SPF is normally its thick texture and white cast that is left behind on the skin. The SheerZinc SPF30 is formulated to be lightweight with no white cast. Formulated by POC Sam Dhatt, he wanted to ensure that this could be used for all skin types and tones!
Due to the shrunken molecule that he formulated, you won’t need to add gallons of SPF to your skin the way that TikTok advises you to. A dime sized amount is enough for the face & neck. Allow the product to warm up on the skin to avoid pilling.
Don’t Forget to Wear Sunscreen
